Grow Food from Food Scraps

Growing food doesn’t have to be complicated, expensive, or use a lot of space. It can be as simple as using your scraps of food that you’d otherwise compost (notice I said “compost” versus throw away), a few containers or jars, and a sunny windowsill. Some plants, like celery and potatoes, are still “alive” after being harvested, washed, and put on the grocery shelf, meaning they can reproduce more food. Yes, this means that your groceries can be recycled, regrown, and make it back on your plate! So, before tossing your food scraps into the compost bin try tossing them into some water or dirt and watch them grow!

Check out the quick tips below of food scraps I’m currently recycling into more food. You can also download a free corresponding activity and coloring sheets for kids over at my shop.

what to expect

The Information below Includes directions on how to get started with setting up several different food scraps In containers and water for growing. I used glass jars and the food scraps that were on hand. There's no need to buy jars, just use any container you have available. At the end of the document are several other food scraps to use for regrowing In the case those are In your cupboard. There are always variations when growing food (just like when cooking food!) so feel free to create a variation of your own. Finally, I have some tips on what you can expect to see happen and some of my favorite ways for using and cooking with the food Item. Have fun growing some food of your own!

celery

Directions: Cut the bottom 3-4 inches of a celery stalk off so that the base area where the stalks attach remains intact; place the cut piece (base first) in a container or use toothpicks/skewers to hold above the base of the container;  fill with water so that 1-2 inches of the cut piece is submerged; place the container on a windowsill that gets some sun; change water daily or as needed

What to expect: You’ll first see new leaves sprout and over time new stalks will grow from those leafy areas; you should start to see new leaves start to grow within 3-4 days; new stalks will take several weeks to grow; harvest as needed (leaves or stalks)

Uses: celery leaf pesto, celery leaf salad, celery salt, celery juice, stir-fries, dips, soups

lettuce

Directions: Cut the bottom 2-3 inches of a head of a lettuce (romaine or bok choy are great options) off so that the base area where the leaves attach remains; place the cut piece in a container or use toothpicks/skewers to hold up from touching the bottom; add water to cover the cut piece about 1 inch; place on a windowsill that gets some sun; change water daily or as needed (if it gets yellow or foggy, its time to change)

What to expect: roots will start to sprout off the base of the lettuce stalk and new leaves will begin to grow; you should start to see signs of new leaves within 3-4 days, it can take up to 7-10 days before leaves will be ready to harvest; harvest leaves as needed (this is called “cut and come again” technique so that the plant continues to grow)

Uses: salads, sandwiches, wraps

potato

Directions: cut the potato in half (for sweet potatoes some people leave it whole) and poke toothpicks or wooden skewers through the middle half (I used one large wooden skewer but having four-points will help with better balance), toothpicks/skewers will need to be long enough to reach the edge of the dish you are using; place the potato in the center of the dish so that the toothpicks/skewers rest on the edge of the dish; fill with water so it covers about 1-2 inches of the potato but doesn’t submerge it; place in a windowsill or area that gets sun; change water daily or as needed (if its foggy, its time to change the water)

Once the “eyes” have grown tubers (stems) that are 5-7 inches long you can transfer them to dirt to keep growing; using either the whole sprouted potato or cutting of individual tubers (stems) with a piece of the potato still attached; bury the tuber in dirt with 2-3 inches of the leaves above the surface; use a container or ground area that will give the potato some space to grow (potatoes grow out and down) and good drainage (for fun try a large paper bag for 2-3 tubers or an old tire for 4-5 tubers); place the container in a spot on your patio or yard that will stay cooler so that the roots don’t get too warm; water regularly; once the stems grow tall and turn brown than the plant is ready to harvest but you can always dig with your hand to check the growth or harvest some early (we harvest as we find the size large enough)

What to expect: The “eyes” (or little indents) of the potato will sprout and grow tubers (“stems”) and the base will grow roots; you should see signs of tubers sprouting within 2-3 days; potatoes are ready for transplanting to dirt when the tubers reach 5-7 inches tall

Uses: mashed potatoes, potato salad, French fries, herb roasted

herbs (cilantro & parsley)

Directions: trim stems leaving about 4-5 inches; if desired bunch and tie the stems together (I do this so I could “float” the stems versus having them touch the bottom of the container; place in container and fill with water to cover about 2-3 inches of the stems; make sure the leaves/tops of the plant are above the surface of the water; change water as needed (if it is foggy, its time for a change); once the roots are 2-3 inches long the plant (as single stems or as a bunch) can be transplanted into dirt and will grow a new plant; bury the new roots and 2-3 inches of the stem; water regularly keeping the soil moist.

What to expect: any wilted-looking leaves should perk up within 24 hours; roots will form in about 2-3 days and continue growing (you want the roots to get around 3 inches long); after transplanting the stems will grow into a new plant and you will begin seeing new shoots; harvest as needed from the base leaves

Uses: garnish for beverages or soups or other dishes, dried as seasoning, add fresh to dishes (Other herbs to grow from food scraps: mint, basil, scallions)

garlic

Directions: break apart the garlic bulb into individual cloves (peel if desired but not necessary);  place the cloves in a container with the tips up (I used a rock in the middle to hold them up straight); fill the container around ½ - 1 inch of water but do not submerge the cloves; place in a windowsill that gets sun; add water daily as needed; you can use these cloves to grow garlic scapes or to transplant and grow a new bulb; if growing for garlic scapes then you can keep in water the whole time (you may need a larger container as the roots grow), harvest the scapes as desired (I wait to harvest mine until it’s at least 10-14 inches long); if growing for transplant to dirt wait until the sprout (scape) has grown about 6 inches and then bury in dirt so that 3-4 inches of the sprout (scape) is above the surface, it can take 8-9 months (depending on your climate) for a clove to grow a full bulb, garlic is ready to harvest when the scape turns brown 

What to expect: the individual cloves will sprout what is called a “scape” on the top and the base will begin to grow roots; the scape will continue to grow and can be used to cook with or as the stem for transplanting

Uses: chop and sauté the scapes and add to pasta or stir-frys, roast the cloves, dry and make your own garlic powder

ginger

Directions: cut in pieces so that they “eye” (pointy part) is on the top side of the cut piece; place the pieces in a container with the eyes pointing up and the cut part pointing down (I used a skewer and poked through the centers so that the bases were all the same height with the eyes pointing up); add water so that the base of the pieces are covered ½ - 1 inch but not submerged; place the container in an area that gets sun; change the water daily as needed (this one tends to get foggy and need more frequent water changes); once stems are about six inches tall and roots have formed the ginger can be placed in dirt, covered with 2-3 inches of soil, and watered regularly to grow new rhizomes (you can also continue to grow the cut piece hydroponically); whether in dirt or water, it can take anywhere from 4-8 months before the new rhizome is ready for harvesting.

What to expect: sprouts will grow out of the “eye” of the ginger and roots will grow from the cut base; the sprouts will continue to grow into tall stems

Uses: dried and made into powder, candied, fresh and grated, DIY ginger beer

mushroom

Directions: pull the stems off the head of the mushroom and cut into ¼ - ½ inch sections; fill a container with 1-2 inches of dirt and place some of the mushroom pieces on the surface; layer another 1-2 inches of dirt and place some more of the mushroom pieces on the surface; continue layering until all mushroom pieces are gone and the last layer is dirt; spritz or mist with water every couple days to keep dirt damp; store the container in a darker area that will stay around 70 degrees and keep any lids off to let airflow;

What to expect: It can take up to 4 weeks for the mushroom to grow and up to 20 days for harvest; patience at the early stage is the key when growing mushrooms

Uses: pizza topping, pasta ingredient, roasted, sautéed, grilled

*bonus*

Try growing these food from food scraps out too!

onions

carrot greens

avocado

pineapple

bok choy

#GrowFoodTogether : Tips and Ideas for Growing Your Own Food

Growing food can take many forms that can be made to fit into any space, whether that be a windowsill, patio, or backyard. Whether you are a first-time gardener or have been growing for years, let’s #GrowFoodTogether this Spring!

Here are some of my favorite ways to grow food:

Windowsill Microgreens

This is a mix of red and green daikon radish microgreens.

Microgreens sprout within a couple days and can be ready to harvest within a week. Microgreens come in a lot of different varieties like arugula, kale, mustard, cilantro, and my favorite radish. My favorite shop to buy microgreens from is Johnny’s Seeds. I use flat plant containers with plenty of drainage, but any pot of any size will work. I suggest a potting or compost mix of soil, I use compost so that after harvest I can mix it in with my other soil and reuse it. Generously sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the soil, water, and lightly cover with a dusting of soil. Keep the soil moist to slightly damp, how often you water will depend on the environment and type of soil; a good schedule for microgreens can be to water lightly every other day. I harvest my microgreens on an as-needed basis by snipping them just above the surface of the soil, this allows any young sprouts to keep growing. Rinse and enjoy! We eat microgreens on their own as a salad or as a garnish for sandwiches, wraps, soups, or mixed in with other greens.

Container Herbs & Edible Flowers

This container includes dwarf curry, lingonberry, french thyme, and rosemary surrounding a lemon cypress.

Earlier this month I participated in an event called Container Wars, the object of the competition was to put together three containers in less than 30 minutes with a few twists added in. The biggest challenge of the competition for me was not having enough edible plant options to mix into my containers, such as herbs. My goals is to have as many plants (not in my shade garden) to have a culinary or medicinal purpose while still looking pretty. For me, containers are like an outdoor spice rack, both literally and figuratively. I love collecting spices and pack as many as possible into our spice cupboard; similarly, I love packing as many plants as possibly into a container because they can always be pruned back or transplanted to another location. Packing containers full of both perennial and annual herbs and edible flowers is functional and aesthetic. Herbs are aromatic and containers often are placed around sitting or walking areas, thus adding to the experience of the garden. Rosemary, thyme, oregano, chives, parsley, cilantro, calendula, lavender, and chamomile are some of the staples in my container garden. This year I’m adding more edible flowers, like bachelor’s button, hyssop, and echinacea, and trying new herbs, like curry. Some herbs can be tricky to start from seed, so a trip to your local nursery can get you some solid starts, plus then you can look at their texture and smell their fragrance before committing. Think about your spice cabinet and culinary style when picking out herbs, you’ll get far more use out of them if they are already something you love using in the kitchen. When arranging a container, I like to think about having varied heights, mixing in shades of greens, adding plants that will flower and color. I like to mix perennials and annuals so that I can be sure to have some year-round herbs and plants growing. Remember, containers can go in any patio, porch, living room, or garden...so it doesn’t matter what size space you have when it comes to container gardening.

Vertical Gardening

Sunset runner beans growing vertically on a trellis and then following twine to create a canopy over the walkway to the greenhouse.

This method for growing food is becoming more and more popular as we continue to look at creative ways to maximize the use of space. Some of the most common vertical gardening methods is to grow strawberries in towers and troughs. Trellising plants, like cucumbers and squash has also been a bit trendy but I usually save my large trellises for peas, beans, and cucamelons, and use smaller trellises to support cucumbers and other smaller plants needing support. I have yet to dive into vertical gardening, but if you check out my Pinterest board or do a quick google search, there are a lot of fun ideas out there and it’s a great way to grow food in small spaces.

Raised Veggie Beds

This is a mix of cedar and galvanized metal raised bed garden I built for a client.

Last but not least, well, for today, is the beloved raised beds. I’ve grown directly in the ground and in beds, and raised beds are by far my favorite. Raised beds are great for growing veggies because the environment and amount of weeding can be controlled more easily, plus they add dimension and interest to a garden. I grow everything from celery to lettuce to beans to tomatoes to herbs to edible flowers in raised beds. The type of beds I use depends on what I want to grow and what design style fits the area. I have begun using galvanized metal beds for plants like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant that like the soil to stay a nice, warm, even temperature. I use lower, shallow beds for lettuces and lower, deeper beds (meaning the soil depth and health goes at least a 10-12 inches down) for root vegetables, like carrots and parsnips (radish, beets, and turnips don’t need as much depth but good, deep soil is always going to be good). Choosing your material for your raised beds depends on what you want to grow, how long you want the beds to last (e.g. cedar will last longer than fir), the growing space, and the design you want (if you’re unsure about this last part, let me know, I love to envision and design gardens!). Like container herb gardens, think about the veggies you currently have in your kitchen and like eating. Starting with what you already know you love to eat will make growing in and harvesting from those raised beds even better!

NOTE: Remember, good soil makes all the difference! When starting new beds I layer the ground base with cardboard (this helps keep weeds out plus will naturally compost down), add my own compost, layer with dried leaves and grass clippings, then fill to the top with compost from our local nursery. Over the season this will compound down and give you space to add mulch as needed, especially in the fall. Good soil will support a healthy, bio-diverse environment while giving your plants plenty of the nutrients they need. For established beds I add a layer of compost each spring and then mulch as needed.

10 Steps to Building A Galvanized Metal Raised Bed

Raised beds are my favorite way to backyard garden. They create dimension, aesthetics, organization, and design to what might otherwise be a simple piece of grass or dirt. They also provide a way to have more control over your growing area, like being able to alter the pH or work as weed barriers. I continue to experiment with different types of raised bed designs, depending on the area of the yard or what I’m trying to grow.

A few months ago, I attended a seminar where the speaker described the pros and cons of different types of raised beds and containers. He briefly discussed the trend of using metal animal troughs and how they can support soil heat for growing crops that may have a variable success rate in the mild climate that I grow in. Metal beds are said to hold a more even temperature throughout the day as the soil absorbs the heat, and maintain a degree of that even when the temperatures cool down at night. Also, galvanized metal takes a long time before rusting and can be reused if the beds were taken apart. The possibility of more growing possibility with reusable materials hooked me!

Naturally this put me on a search for used animal troughs with the vision of having melons and squash growing in the yard as my motivation. I found there were few new or used to choose from, and they were expensive, so I decided to design and build my own. I chose to use a combination of cedar, for the durability, and galvanized metal, to create the heat bed I am hoping for.

I designed the beds with an open bottom to create an environment where organic matter and little critters can move around in a natural, healthy ecosystem. However, this means that weeds and other plants can creep in to the growing area. To help keep the weeds out, I place cardboard down and then layer with yard compost, nursery compost, and top soil and/or mulch (not bark dust). I use the cardboard because it creates an environment where the weeds can’t survive, and within a growing season it will compost down and support the ecosystem I’m hoping for. I’m not a scientist, but I do know there is some science behind this process that ultimately is in support of the underground world and growing process.

So far, I have transplanted garlic into the smaller beds and am waiting for the starts to grow a little more before I transplant the tomatoes, peppers, onions, and basil in the big beds. I am looking forward to testing out these raised beds in my yard this year and hope you also get to have some fun trying out your own!

Below is a list of materials I used and the steps I took to build my beds. Some of the supplies, like the metal shears, you can find in my Tools list on Amazon. The beds (without any tool purchases) cost around $60 each.

Materials

• Pen

• Measuring Tape

• Level

• Gloves

• Eye Protection

• Sealant (I look for the lowest VOCs possible since water runoff will cause the chemicals to seep into your soil where your plants are growing and down into the reservoirs that eventually make their way out to our rivers and oceans)

• Drill & Shears Attachment

• Nail Gun (a variety of sizes will be helpful like framing, brad, and staple gun)

• Nails and staples

• Miter or Skill Saw

• Shovel

• Post Hole Digger

• Wood (I used cedar for this project because it is one of the strongest woods I can find in my area. If you decide to go with a softer, less expensive wood like hem/fir, make sure to add several coats of sealant to extend its life and durability)

  • 4x4x8 (1 piece)

  • 1x4x8 (2 pieces for the Three Foot Bed, 4 pieces for the Six Foot Bed)

  • 1x2x8 (1 piece for the Three Foot Bed, 2 pieces for the Six Foot Bed)

• Corrugated Galvanized Metal (roof panel style)

  • 3x8 (1 piece for the Three Foot Bed, 2 pieces for the Six Foot Bed)

• Cardboard

• Compostable Yard Debris

• Compost

• Top Soil or Mulch (not bark dust)

INSTRUCTIONS

The instructions below are for a Three Foot Bed, I have made notes of what to pay attention to if you are choosing to instead make the Six Foot Bed. The steps can be followed for any size of bed you want to build, you will just need to adjust the measurements accordingly.

Step One

• Cut the 4x4x8 pieces in 2’ sections (you will have four 2’ sections)

• Three Foot Bed

  • For each of the 1x4x8 boards cut two 3 foot sections and two 1 foot sections (you will have a total of four 3 foot sections and four 1 foot sections)

• Six Foot Bed

  • For each of the 1x4x8 boards cut one 6 foot section and one 2 foot section (you will have a total of four 6 foot sections and four 2 foot sections)

Step Two

• Seal the boards using a low VOC, water repellent sealant (this step can also be done as Step One since the boards will need up to a day to dry)

Step Three

• On the new 4x4x2 foot boards make a mark on each one at 18” (the remaining 6” will be set into the ground to help stabilize and level the bed) and lay them on a level area with the marks facing up

• Nail one 1x4x1 (Three Foot Bed) or 1x4x2 (Six Foot Bed) foot boards to the 4x4x2 foot board, making sure it is flush on all sides

• Line up the base of one of the 1x4x1 (Three Foot Bed) or 1x4x2 (Six Foot Bed) foot boards with the marks you made at 18 inches, making sure they also are flush with the edges of the 4x4x2 foot board and have an equal amount of difference from the top boards, secure these by nailing

• Repeat this process for the other set of 4x4x2 and 1x4x1 (Three Foot Bed) or 1x4x2 (Six Foot Bed) foot boards

Step Four

• Place both of the sections you just created on their sides with the length of the bed between them (3 feet for the Three Foot Bed, 6 feet for the Six Foot Bed)

• Place one of the 1x4x3 (or 1x4x6) foot boards near the top of both sides, make sure it is flush with all edges and secure by nailing

• Place one of the 1x4x3 (or 1x4x6) foot boards flush with the side pieces measured at the 18 inches mark and secure by nailing

• Repeat this process for the other set of 1x4x3 (or 1x4x6) foot boards

Step Five

• Measure the distance of the long ends of the inside part of the bed, for the Three Foot Bed the measurement should be at 26 ¾ inches

• Measure the height of the distance between the top and base 1x4x3 (or 1x4x6) foot boards, this should be at 18 inches for both the Three Foot Bed and Six Foot Bed

• On the corrugated galvanized metal measure two 18x26 ¾ (Three Foot Bed) or 18x62 ¾ (Six Foot Bed) inch areas, marking the space with a marker and using the level to draw out the lines, the corrugated ripples should be horizontal

• Using the metal shears drill attachment (you can find in my Tools list on Amazon) cut the metal

Step Six

• Measure the distance of the short ends of the inside part of the bed, these should be 4 ¾ (Three Foot Bed) or 14 ½ (Six Foot Beds) inches

• You’ve already measured the height that should be 18 inches

• On the corrugated galvanized metal measure two 18x4 ¾ (Three Foot Bed) or one 18x14 ½ (Six Foot Bed) inch area(s), marking the space with a marker and using the level to draw out the lines, the corrugated ripples should be horizontal

• Using the metal shears drill attachment (you can find in my Tools list on Amazon) cut the metal

Step Seven

• Secure each piece of the corrugated galvanized metal to the inside of the 1x4x3 (or 1x4x6 for Six Foot Bed) foot boards using the staple gun (I chose to use staples instead of nails since the wood was not very thick and the metal was thin)

• Don’t worry if a little bit of the metal extends a little longer than your base board, you will be able to dig that area into the ground

Step Eight

• Measure the distance from the bottom of the 1x4x3 (or 1x4x6 on Six Foot Bed) foot top board and top of the base board, this should be around 11 inches

• Cut the 1x2x8 foot board into eight pieces (Three Foot Board) or ten pieces (Six Foot Board)

• Using the brad nail gun, secure these pieces to the outside areas where the galvanized metal meets the 4x4x2 foot boards, this will help secure the metal from bulging once filled with dirt and also adds some curb appeal

• For the Six Foot Beds secure three pieces evenly across the long ends

Step Nine

• Identify the area you are going to place the bed

• Measure the distance between all four 4x4x2 foot boards (legs) and mark the area

• Using a post-hole digger (you can find in my Tools list on Amazon) dig 7-8 inch holes

• Place the bed legs in the four holes and use the level to make sure the bed is balanced, dig deeper or fill in with dirt and rocks to create a level surface

• Once level, fill the holes in with dirt (and rocks if you choose)

Step Ten

• Line the bottom of the bed with cardboard, make sure to remove any plastic tape or labels

• On top of the cardboard layer dried leaves, grass clippings, and other compostable yard debris

• Fill in with a rich compost and top with either top soil or mulch

• At this point you can start placing plants into the bed in the Three Foot Beds as long as you compact down the compost and top soil. For the Six Foot Beds it is best to wait at least a week for the yard debris to beak down and likely cause some extra space to add another layer of top soil or mulch to the top

These steps can be followed for any size bed you want to build, just make sure to put in enough 1x2 reinforcers on the outside of the long end of any bed to provide support and keep from bulging. Remember that these beds will hold in more heat than stone or wood-only beds, so you will want to monitor watering to make sure that the soil does not dry out. Have fun with your new raised beds and for joining me in this gardening adventure...let’s grow together!