Companion Planting: From Edible Flowers to the Three Sisters

Companion planting is the practice of organizing plants so that they benefit one another, contribute to the health of the soil, and create an environment for both plants and critters to thrive. It works to mirror what takes place in nature to create a replica of that environment in the garden. I have found companion planting to help me maximize my growing space, minimize harmful pests, build healthy soil, and increase beneficial insects, pollinators, and birds.

Just like humans, some plants get along and others don’t. For example, potatoes seem to be controversial as they take up a lot of space underground, which compete with other plant roots. Garlic and onion are aromatic that is helpful in deterring unwanted pests but can stunt the growth of peas. Sunflowers attract bees, butterflies, and birds but can establish territory through a process call allelopathy that can hinder the growth of other plants. Beans add nitrogen to the soil, borage acts as a decoy for aphids, and mint deters cabbage moths.

The more I learn about companion planting, the more awe and respect I have for the inner-workings of what nature already knows and does. However, it can also be overwhelming and information overload, so I have done my best here to take what I have learned to make it readily accessible to put to practice whether in a patio container garden or raised beds.

Through my own gardening adventures and research, I have created a companion planting chart, one of my favorite features is that each item from flower to herb to fruit to vegetable is edible (yes, edible flowers)! I have grown almost all of the plants in the chart or they are on my list to grow this year, which means it isn’t comprehensive but includes many of my favorites. It is a large list of plants and even though I created it, I can get overwhelmed, so make sure to read the tips before getting started. To download my Companion Planting Chart by PWM for free, head to my shop.

Here are some of my favorite companion plants and tips:

flowers

• marigolds: these often get dismissed because they are not considered as pretty as other flowers, but they are a must-have companion plant for any size garden. They attract beneficial insects, deter unwanted pests, and help keep beneath the soil nematodes away. They are great for planting along the edges and borders of vegetable gardens and get along with most plants. Their musky smell can compete with other aromatic herbs and flowers, so just keep them spaced out a bit. Make sure to give them some space between beans and brassica family plants.

• borage: this became a quick favorite last season as it is a highly productive plant, the flowers and leaves are both edible, and it acts as a decoy for aphids. This means that the aphids find a home with borage instead of with tomatoes, but the borage isn’t harmed by the aphids. The blue flowers have a cucumber-like taste and are beautiful on flowers, in cocktails, or on desserts. The leaves are best when young and tender, but work well combined in salads, soups, are as any green, made into pesto. The plant can grow large, so don’t make the mistake I did and plant it within inches of your tomato plant, instead give it some room between neighboring plants.

• calendula: this edible and medicinal flower will produce well into the Fall, has mostly bright orange and yellow flowers, and repels hornworms, beetles, and moths. I’ve found research to show that the roots can help in the removal of certain toxins from the soil, but since I’m not a scientist I have not actually tested this. Although the petals are edible, whether raw or cooked, they are more often used as a natural dye or the whole flower head is dried and used medicinally in oils and creams. I haven’t found calendula to have any garden foes, so I generously plant this throughout my all my gardens.

• nasturtium: this vining plant can be jump started early indoors and act as a climber or semi-ground cover throughout the garden. It attracts hummingbirds and repels pests like aphids, beetles, and squash bugs. Like borage, aphids will be attracted to nasturtium instead of the neighboring plants but won’t be impacted. The flowers are edible and can be stuffed like squash flowers. My favorite aspect of nasturtiums are the round shape of their leaves, they remind me of something a bit tropical or lily pads. I haven’t found any garden foes, so I inter-plant nasturtiums throughout my garden.

herbs

• chive: this is one of the staple herbs in my garden that I inter-plant throughout all my beds. Their garlicky-onion smell helps repel pests and is said to improve the flavor of neighboring plants, especially carrots and celery. They are a cut-and-come-again perennial, which means the more you cut they more they grow and will return year after year. I usually leave some uncut and let go to flower because their purple petals are a pretty addition to the garden, as well are delicious themselves. Last year I made a chive-flower vinaigrette that was delicious on green and potato salads. Give chives some distance from beans or peas, but otherwise can be planted throughout the garden.

• dill: this is one of my favorite herbal companion plants, I also like the whimsy of the plant’s leaves. Dill is excellent to inter-plant with the brassica family, especially cabbage as it attracts parasitic wasps that prey on cabbage worm. I have been challenged growing it from seed, so purchasing starts that are a slow-bolting breed is recommended. Also, keep it away from carrots and tomatoes, they are non-companions. Fresh dill is delicious in summer potato salads, garnish for fish, or used in salad dressings.

• sage: this herb has culinary and medicinal uses, but not all sage plants are edible, some are used as ornamentals and for the flowering aspect to attract pollinators. I incorporate a variety of sage into my garden and although I love the pretty flowers, my favorite is garden sage for its pungent smell and culinary use. Homegrown dried sage saved for cooking with during the holidays is delicious! Common (or garden) sage repels cabbage moth, carrot fly, and beetles. Aside from cucumbers, it can be inter-planted with other garden plants. I often plant sage similarly to marigolds, as a border plant.

• lemongrass: this is not a plant I commonly see gardeners grow, but I grow it every year. Its aromatic properties help repel mosquitoes, so when inter-planted with lavender, mint, and marigolds on the patio it can help keep some of those annoying pests away. It can be inter-planted with fruit trees, flowers, and vegetables; it just needs full sun. It adds texture and dimension to the garden and adds flavor to the kitchen. I grow this from seed, but most nurseries will care a small selection of starts. Just watch out, pets love to eat this plant!

veggies

• the three sisters: corn, bean, squash: this is a companion planting trio used first by Native Americans and First Nations. The stalk of the corn acts as a trellis for the bean, the bean adds nitrogen to the soil, and the squash leaves act as a protective cover to the soil while also deterring pests. Corn and beans need vertical growing space while squash needs sprawling space, so this trio is best for in the ground or raised bed gardening. I grow as many beans as possible and can them to use throughout the winter and give as gifts. Zucchini is a prolific squash so just one or two plants is all you need. All three of these can be directly seeded into the ground next to each other, I often start these seeds indoors to give them a jump start. Non-companions for this trio include onion, potato, and tomatoes.

• cucumber: this is one of my favorite plants to have in the garden each year because they use little space, trellis vertically, and are great fresh or canned. They can sensitive to their surroundings so planting them with the right companions can support their growth. They do well with cabbage, carrot, lettuce greens, onion, and more. Just keep them away from potato and aromatic herbs, like oregano and sage. Canning to make your own pickles is popular with gardeners, just make sure to grow pickling cucumbers if you want to do this. Slicing cucumbers are great fresh.

• tomato: this is a plant in the nightshade family, a term you’ll often see in companion planting resources. Tomatoes love sun (and warm soil) and do well with carrot, onion, basil, nasturtium, and most other nightshades. Corn, dill, fennel, and potato are non-companions, so keep them in different parts of the garden (this could even mean just a several feet apart from my experience). Aphids will often attack tomatoes so planting borage or nasturtium near by will help. Tomatoes grow up and out so companion plants need to be planted near but not directly next to the tomato plant so that everyone has enough room. I love drying cherry tomatoes and making marinara. Gardeners often grow and can tomatoes for use throughout the winter.

The companion planting list goes on and on. If you are newer to food gardening, pick a few plants that you want to grow, identify their companions, and start there. Trying to grow the list from the whole chart could be overwhelming and turn into more work and food waste than hoped for, so starting with your few favorites is best. Remember that soil, water, and sunlight are three key ingredients to successful growing no matter if you following companion planting practices or not. So first start with making sure those three ingredients are in place, then start adding your plants.

I love companion planting and can’t imagine growing food in any other way. This year I am excited to experiment a bit more with it as I move from keeping the crops in block or row-like sections next to their companions, to weaving them together. Nature has a lot teach us about what works or doesn’t work, so your plants will tell you if they like who they are planted next to, if their soil has the nutrients they need, or if they are thirsty for some water. Happy companion planting!

Grow Food from Food Scraps

Growing food doesn’t have to be complicated, expensive, or use a lot of space. It can be as simple as using your scraps of food that you’d otherwise compost (notice I said “compost” versus throw away), a few containers or jars, and a sunny windowsill. Some plants, like celery and potatoes, are still “alive” after being harvested, washed, and put on the grocery shelf, meaning they can reproduce more food. Yes, this means that your groceries can be recycled, regrown, and make it back on your plate! So, before tossing your food scraps into the compost bin try tossing them into some water or dirt and watch them grow!

Check out the quick tips below of food scraps I’m currently recycling into more food. You can also download a free corresponding activity and coloring sheets for kids over at my shop.

what to expect

The Information below Includes directions on how to get started with setting up several different food scraps In containers and water for growing. I used glass jars and the food scraps that were on hand. There's no need to buy jars, just use any container you have available. At the end of the document are several other food scraps to use for regrowing In the case those are In your cupboard. There are always variations when growing food (just like when cooking food!) so feel free to create a variation of your own. Finally, I have some tips on what you can expect to see happen and some of my favorite ways for using and cooking with the food Item. Have fun growing some food of your own!

celery

Directions: Cut the bottom 3-4 inches of a celery stalk off so that the base area where the stalks attach remains intact; place the cut piece (base first) in a container or use toothpicks/skewers to hold above the base of the container;  fill with water so that 1-2 inches of the cut piece is submerged; place the container on a windowsill that gets some sun; change water daily or as needed

What to expect: You’ll first see new leaves sprout and over time new stalks will grow from those leafy areas; you should start to see new leaves start to grow within 3-4 days; new stalks will take several weeks to grow; harvest as needed (leaves or stalks)

Uses: celery leaf pesto, celery leaf salad, celery salt, celery juice, stir-fries, dips, soups

lettuce

Directions: Cut the bottom 2-3 inches of a head of a lettuce (romaine or bok choy are great options) off so that the base area where the leaves attach remains; place the cut piece in a container or use toothpicks/skewers to hold up from touching the bottom; add water to cover the cut piece about 1 inch; place on a windowsill that gets some sun; change water daily or as needed (if it gets yellow or foggy, its time to change)

What to expect: roots will start to sprout off the base of the lettuce stalk and new leaves will begin to grow; you should start to see signs of new leaves within 3-4 days, it can take up to 7-10 days before leaves will be ready to harvest; harvest leaves as needed (this is called “cut and come again” technique so that the plant continues to grow)

Uses: salads, sandwiches, wraps

potato

Directions: cut the potato in half (for sweet potatoes some people leave it whole) and poke toothpicks or wooden skewers through the middle half (I used one large wooden skewer but having four-points will help with better balance), toothpicks/skewers will need to be long enough to reach the edge of the dish you are using; place the potato in the center of the dish so that the toothpicks/skewers rest on the edge of the dish; fill with water so it covers about 1-2 inches of the potato but doesn’t submerge it; place in a windowsill or area that gets sun; change water daily or as needed (if its foggy, its time to change the water)

Once the “eyes” have grown tubers (stems) that are 5-7 inches long you can transfer them to dirt to keep growing; using either the whole sprouted potato or cutting of individual tubers (stems) with a piece of the potato still attached; bury the tuber in dirt with 2-3 inches of the leaves above the surface; use a container or ground area that will give the potato some space to grow (potatoes grow out and down) and good drainage (for fun try a large paper bag for 2-3 tubers or an old tire for 4-5 tubers); place the container in a spot on your patio or yard that will stay cooler so that the roots don’t get too warm; water regularly; once the stems grow tall and turn brown than the plant is ready to harvest but you can always dig with your hand to check the growth or harvest some early (we harvest as we find the size large enough)

What to expect: The “eyes” (or little indents) of the potato will sprout and grow tubers (“stems”) and the base will grow roots; you should see signs of tubers sprouting within 2-3 days; potatoes are ready for transplanting to dirt when the tubers reach 5-7 inches tall

Uses: mashed potatoes, potato salad, French fries, herb roasted

herbs (cilantro & parsley)

Directions: trim stems leaving about 4-5 inches; if desired bunch and tie the stems together (I do this so I could “float” the stems versus having them touch the bottom of the container; place in container and fill with water to cover about 2-3 inches of the stems; make sure the leaves/tops of the plant are above the surface of the water; change water as needed (if it is foggy, its time for a change); once the roots are 2-3 inches long the plant (as single stems or as a bunch) can be transplanted into dirt and will grow a new plant; bury the new roots and 2-3 inches of the stem; water regularly keeping the soil moist.

What to expect: any wilted-looking leaves should perk up within 24 hours; roots will form in about 2-3 days and continue growing (you want the roots to get around 3 inches long); after transplanting the stems will grow into a new plant and you will begin seeing new shoots; harvest as needed from the base leaves

Uses: garnish for beverages or soups or other dishes, dried as seasoning, add fresh to dishes (Other herbs to grow from food scraps: mint, basil, scallions)

garlic

Directions: break apart the garlic bulb into individual cloves (peel if desired but not necessary);  place the cloves in a container with the tips up (I used a rock in the middle to hold them up straight); fill the container around ½ - 1 inch of water but do not submerge the cloves; place in a windowsill that gets sun; add water daily as needed; you can use these cloves to grow garlic scapes or to transplant and grow a new bulb; if growing for garlic scapes then you can keep in water the whole time (you may need a larger container as the roots grow), harvest the scapes as desired (I wait to harvest mine until it’s at least 10-14 inches long); if growing for transplant to dirt wait until the sprout (scape) has grown about 6 inches and then bury in dirt so that 3-4 inches of the sprout (scape) is above the surface, it can take 8-9 months (depending on your climate) for a clove to grow a full bulb, garlic is ready to harvest when the scape turns brown 

What to expect: the individual cloves will sprout what is called a “scape” on the top and the base will begin to grow roots; the scape will continue to grow and can be used to cook with or as the stem for transplanting

Uses: chop and sauté the scapes and add to pasta or stir-frys, roast the cloves, dry and make your own garlic powder

ginger

Directions: cut in pieces so that they “eye” (pointy part) is on the top side of the cut piece; place the pieces in a container with the eyes pointing up and the cut part pointing down (I used a skewer and poked through the centers so that the bases were all the same height with the eyes pointing up); add water so that the base of the pieces are covered ½ - 1 inch but not submerged; place the container in an area that gets sun; change the water daily as needed (this one tends to get foggy and need more frequent water changes); once stems are about six inches tall and roots have formed the ginger can be placed in dirt, covered with 2-3 inches of soil, and watered regularly to grow new rhizomes (you can also continue to grow the cut piece hydroponically); whether in dirt or water, it can take anywhere from 4-8 months before the new rhizome is ready for harvesting.

What to expect: sprouts will grow out of the “eye” of the ginger and roots will grow from the cut base; the sprouts will continue to grow into tall stems

Uses: dried and made into powder, candied, fresh and grated, DIY ginger beer

mushroom

Directions: pull the stems off the head of the mushroom and cut into ¼ - ½ inch sections; fill a container with 1-2 inches of dirt and place some of the mushroom pieces on the surface; layer another 1-2 inches of dirt and place some more of the mushroom pieces on the surface; continue layering until all mushroom pieces are gone and the last layer is dirt; spritz or mist with water every couple days to keep dirt damp; store the container in a darker area that will stay around 70 degrees and keep any lids off to let airflow;

What to expect: It can take up to 4 weeks for the mushroom to grow and up to 20 days for harvest; patience at the early stage is the key when growing mushrooms

Uses: pizza topping, pasta ingredient, roasted, sautéed, grilled

*bonus*

Try growing these food from food scraps out too!

onions

carrot greens

avocado

pineapple

bok choy

#GrowFoodTogether : Tips and Ideas for Growing Your Own Food

Growing food can take many forms that can be made to fit into any space, whether that be a windowsill, patio, or backyard. Whether you are a first-time gardener or have been growing for years, let’s #GrowFoodTogether this Spring!

Here are some of my favorite ways to grow food:

Windowsill Microgreens

This is a mix of red and green daikon radish microgreens.

Microgreens sprout within a couple days and can be ready to harvest within a week. Microgreens come in a lot of different varieties like arugula, kale, mustard, cilantro, and my favorite radish. My favorite shop to buy microgreens from is Johnny’s Seeds. I use flat plant containers with plenty of drainage, but any pot of any size will work. I suggest a potting or compost mix of soil, I use compost so that after harvest I can mix it in with my other soil and reuse it. Generously sprinkle the seeds on the surface of the soil, water, and lightly cover with a dusting of soil. Keep the soil moist to slightly damp, how often you water will depend on the environment and type of soil; a good schedule for microgreens can be to water lightly every other day. I harvest my microgreens on an as-needed basis by snipping them just above the surface of the soil, this allows any young sprouts to keep growing. Rinse and enjoy! We eat microgreens on their own as a salad or as a garnish for sandwiches, wraps, soups, or mixed in with other greens.

Container Herbs & Edible Flowers

This container includes dwarf curry, lingonberry, french thyme, and rosemary surrounding a lemon cypress.

Earlier this month I participated in an event called Container Wars, the object of the competition was to put together three containers in less than 30 minutes with a few twists added in. The biggest challenge of the competition for me was not having enough edible plant options to mix into my containers, such as herbs. My goals is to have as many plants (not in my shade garden) to have a culinary or medicinal purpose while still looking pretty. For me, containers are like an outdoor spice rack, both literally and figuratively. I love collecting spices and pack as many as possible into our spice cupboard; similarly, I love packing as many plants as possibly into a container because they can always be pruned back or transplanted to another location. Packing containers full of both perennial and annual herbs and edible flowers is functional and aesthetic. Herbs are aromatic and containers often are placed around sitting or walking areas, thus adding to the experience of the garden. Rosemary, thyme, oregano, chives, parsley, cilantro, calendula, lavender, and chamomile are some of the staples in my container garden. This year I’m adding more edible flowers, like bachelor’s button, hyssop, and echinacea, and trying new herbs, like curry. Some herbs can be tricky to start from seed, so a trip to your local nursery can get you some solid starts, plus then you can look at their texture and smell their fragrance before committing. Think about your spice cabinet and culinary style when picking out herbs, you’ll get far more use out of them if they are already something you love using in the kitchen. When arranging a container, I like to think about having varied heights, mixing in shades of greens, adding plants that will flower and color. I like to mix perennials and annuals so that I can be sure to have some year-round herbs and plants growing. Remember, containers can go in any patio, porch, living room, or garden...so it doesn’t matter what size space you have when it comes to container gardening.

Vertical Gardening

Sunset runner beans growing vertically on a trellis and then following twine to create a canopy over the walkway to the greenhouse.

This method for growing food is becoming more and more popular as we continue to look at creative ways to maximize the use of space. Some of the most common vertical gardening methods is to grow strawberries in towers and troughs. Trellising plants, like cucumbers and squash has also been a bit trendy but I usually save my large trellises for peas, beans, and cucamelons, and use smaller trellises to support cucumbers and other smaller plants needing support. I have yet to dive into vertical gardening, but if you check out my Pinterest board or do a quick google search, there are a lot of fun ideas out there and it’s a great way to grow food in small spaces.

Raised Veggie Beds

This is a mix of cedar and galvanized metal raised bed garden I built for a client.

Last but not least, well, for today, is the beloved raised beds. I’ve grown directly in the ground and in beds, and raised beds are by far my favorite. Raised beds are great for growing veggies because the environment and amount of weeding can be controlled more easily, plus they add dimension and interest to a garden. I grow everything from celery to lettuce to beans to tomatoes to herbs to edible flowers in raised beds. The type of beds I use depends on what I want to grow and what design style fits the area. I have begun using galvanized metal beds for plants like tomatoes, peppers, and eggplant that like the soil to stay a nice, warm, even temperature. I use lower, shallow beds for lettuces and lower, deeper beds (meaning the soil depth and health goes at least a 10-12 inches down) for root vegetables, like carrots and parsnips (radish, beets, and turnips don’t need as much depth but good, deep soil is always going to be good). Choosing your material for your raised beds depends on what you want to grow, how long you want the beds to last (e.g. cedar will last longer than fir), the growing space, and the design you want (if you’re unsure about this last part, let me know, I love to envision and design gardens!). Like container herb gardens, think about the veggies you currently have in your kitchen and like eating. Starting with what you already know you love to eat will make growing in and harvesting from those raised beds even better!

NOTE: Remember, good soil makes all the difference! When starting new beds I layer the ground base with cardboard (this helps keep weeds out plus will naturally compost down), add my own compost, layer with dried leaves and grass clippings, then fill to the top with compost from our local nursery. Over the season this will compound down and give you space to add mulch as needed, especially in the fall. Good soil will support a healthy, bio-diverse environment while giving your plants plenty of the nutrients they need. For established beds I add a layer of compost each spring and then mulch as needed.